Wednesday, September 15, 2010
Castor Oil Properties in Soap
I thought it would be interesting to write about some of the oils I use in my soap. After making soap for over 10 years I have found that different oils contribute different qualities.
Castor oil is derived from the seed of the plant. The castor plant is native to the southeastern Mediterranean basin, East Africa and India. India is the largest producer of castor oil followed by China and Brazil.
Traditionally, castor oil has many other uses. It is used as a laxative and to relieve stomache aches. It is also used as an industrial lubricant. Castor oil is also used to promote hair growth and is good for acne prone skin.
What makes castor oil different from other oils is the high concentration of ricinolein making it extremely thick and viscous.
In soapmaking, castor oil is invaluable. All of my soap contains castor oil. Like all oils you need to find the correct percentage to use. Too much castor oil will make your soap very soft and mushy. A little goes a long way unless you are making a shampoo bar. In shampoo bars a common usage rate can be as high as 25%. Soaps made with this much castor take much longer to cure. Shampoo bars take at least two months to harden.
In my regular bars I use 2-3% castor oil. It has natural emollient properties that adds conditioning qualities to the soap. The addition of castor oil creates rich, dense, thick bubbles. The biggest benefit that I see in my soap is that the lather is thick and luxurious.
Castor oil is one oil that I cannot go without!
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
Why I Oppose the Safe Cosmetics Act
The bill sounds great on the surface but once you dig a little deeper you find many discrepancies. The first question I ask myself after I read something is "Who is the author?" and, "What is in it for them?". One of the founders of the Compact for Safe Cosmetics (CSFC) is Stacy Malkan, author of "Not Just a Pretty Face". On the Skin Deep website their is a link to her website if you care to purchase the book for $15.95 - not including shipping. The bill is being backed by some powerful tax-exempt organizations including the Environmental Working Group (EWG). The EWG has not filed a tax return since 2008. Even though they are considered a charitable organization they are still required to file taxes. The president of the EWG is Ken Cook. In 2008 (the last year a tax return was filed) his salary was listed as $219,401.00 along with an additional "estimated" $21,295.00 for other compensation. You can read the entire article at "The Revealing Truth of the Money Trail of EWG". If you are like me you will be amused - if not amazed - at the salaries of some of the members including Richard Wiles, Jane Houlihan, William Walker, Susan Comfort, Sandra Schubert, Alexander Formuzis and Christopher Campbell. The combined salaries of these top 8 employees alone was $1,185,775.00.
One of the major reasons I do not support this bill is that it will require small businesses to conduct "safety" testing on all of our finished products. This does not seem like a big deal, but it can cost anywhere from $5,000 to $20,000 just to test one product! Of course I would need to get my product tested in a "government approved" testing facility. So, when I change the name of "Apple Jack" to "Celtic Christmas" sometime in October, I can expect to pay an exorbitant amount of money to get my new soap tested. When I decide that I would like to introduce a nice autumn fragrance like "Pumpkin Harvest", guess what? Kaching, kaching, kaching..... another $8,000 to get it tested! My annual "gross" income from my soap business in 2009 was $12,667.00. I currently have 36 soaps, 12 flavors of lip balms, 8 lotion scents, 2 facial toners, 6 body sprays (give or take)....well, you get the picture!
The Safe Cosmetics Act is just another form of regulation that small business owners do not need. I already list all of my ingredients on my product labels. I file my taxes and pay them. This bill will bog me down in excess government paperwork and is just another form of censorship by the government. I urge people to read this bill between the lines! Who benefits from this bill? Big businesses that can afford to file all of the paperwork and pay for the filing fees. Stacy Malkan who promotes her book on the Safe Cosmetics website. Ken Cook and his cohorts who collect huge salaries and don't file taxes.
This bill is not what it seems and I hope you will take a few minutes to read this petition and sign it.
http://www.thepetitionsite.com/1/oppose-hr-5786-safe-cosmetics-act-of-2010
Friday, July 9, 2010
Menasha Market
The atmosphere is relaxed and the vendors are terrific. My soap business is not only about selling soap but, more importantly, the relationships that you form with the other vendors. Panhia sells right next to me. She has 10 children - 6 girls and 4 boys! She is so tiny you would never beleive that she has 10 children!
It is a real joy to be next to her every week. She gives me all kinds of great vegetables like carrots, beets, mint, strawberries, raspberries, scallions and the best cilantro I have ever eaten.
She asked me to give her a print of these pictures when I see her this coming Thursday. Panhia is Hmong and originally from Laos. The Hmong are here in the United States as refugees from the Vietnam War. They were recruited by the US and fought against North Vietnam. In general, the Hmong people followed an agrarian lifestyle - much like our European ancestors. Because they fought to preserve their culture and would not be subdued by the communists, they were targeted for genocidal extinction.
The majority of Hmongs have settled in Wisconsin, Minnesota and California. The Hmong people are very family oriented and hard working. I feel honored to have Panhia as a friend!
My next picture is Syd who is on the other side of me at the market. He also has a unique story. Syd is from Stephensville, which is very close to Shiocton. Syd sells old insulators, rhubarb, dried out gourds and maple syrup. We share the same Maple tree and we both benefit from its shade. Syd had his own farmer's market going at the Columbus Club in Appleton for a long time. Because of all the politics, he is not selling at the Appleton Market on Saturday mornings. He is a really nice guy - except for the fact that he eats too much meat. I am working on him, though, and hopefully before the summer ends I will have him weaned from his evil ways. Although he thinks that I am the one who is nuts.
Here are some pictures of my set-up at the market:
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Terry Naturally Farmer's Market
- Beaver Brook Maple Syrup
- Caprine Supreme
- Dalla Terra Pasta
- Drachona Gems
- Great Harvest Bread
- Kellner Back Acre Garden
- Keune Authentic Foods
- Mai's Flowers
- Makes Scents
- Mind and Body Products
- Native American Jewelry
- Navarino Valley Elk & Buffalo Ranch
- Oneida Apple Orchard
- Siefarm Grass Fed Beef
- Soap Dance (the best natural soap around!)
- Sweet Dirt Acres
- The Bridge Between Retreat Center
- Timms Garden and Canning
- Weeping Willow Produce
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Business Cards
I also wanted to create a "Green" Business Card. Because of my personal beliefs I want to use recycled paper and soy ink. I have struggled with using Vistaprint because the company seems to be strangely like an internet version of Walmart (wow, I love that analogy - you can quote me on that!). Even if it costs a little more, I want my business card to reflect my own philosophy of being environmentally friendly.
This is a Jpeg of what I came up with. I actually did this in a pdf format, but it would not upload like that. My actual business card will have rounded corners.
If anyone is interested in where I ordered my cards, email me or give me a call!
Thursday, April 29, 2010
Liquid Soap Update
This is what my liquid soap looks like 2 weeks later! This is normal - it will probably take another few days before it is clear. This process is called sequestering. I added more glycerin and borax to my liquid soap after I tested the ph level. Sequestering comes from the Latin word, sesquestrare, which means to remove, set aside or separate. The clouding of the soap is caused by insoluble fatty acids.
Once the soap becomes brighter and less cloudy I will add the essential and fragrance oils. I plan on splitting this batch into three parts. One I will fragrance with Pink Grapefruit essential oil, one with Lavender essential oil and the last with Patchouli essential oil and Raspberry fragrance oil. When I add the various fragrances it will be interesting to see which ones will turn my soap cloudy again.
I think it is pretty neat to see the entire process of making liquid soap. It is very different than when I make my normal soap!
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Liquid Soap Adventure!
This is a picture of what the soap looks like after you combine the oil and butter mixture with the potassium hydroxide and water.
I used the paste method where you end up with a very thick, paste like substance. Using a stick blender, it doesn't take long for the mixture to turn into a glue-like consistency.
You dilute this using distilled water and it can take up to three days. I started out using a version of my regular soap formula and ran it through the lye calculator at The Sage. One of the tricks to making clear liquid soap is to use a "0" superfat. This means that all of your oils are saponified leaving nothing extra. Normally you would want to superfat your soap somewhat so that your soap has the conditioning benefits of the oils. When I make regular soap I always superfat my batches so that my soap is more moisturizing (well, as moisturizing as soap can be while still being cleansing).
It is imperative that you have an accurate scale. I went to a soapmaking class a few years ago just to see how it was being taught (and I was nosy). I cringed when the instructor said that a few ounces here or there was no big deal. It is a big deal! In soapmaking you need to be very accurate or your soap will be either lye heavy or a greasy mess. I am sure everyone has heard stories about their grandmothers making soap out of lard. Lye heavy soap is extremely drying and hard on your skin. On the other hand, a soap too heavy on the oil/butter side will not be cleansing and leave an oily film on your skin. So it is extremely important to measure your ingredients very accurately!
I did superfat my batch of liquid soap. I plan on using opaque pump bottles so it is not important to me if my soap is clear or cloudy. I wanted to leave some of the oils and butters unsaponified to make my soap less drying and harsh.
The soap above is what the paste looks like. It is so thick that you can't stir it and can barely get the spoon out. I used some lovely oils and butters in this batch so I hope it turns out to be a nice, luxurious soap.
The ingredients I used are: Babassu, Avocado, Sweet Almond, Castor, Shea, Cocoa and Kokum Butters, Macadamia, Olive and Rice Bran. I have now diluted my paste and plan to add some Jojoba.
I can't wait to try it! I plan on splitting this batch and doing half with Lavender and the other half Patchouli Raspberry.
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Homemade Raw Sauerkraut
- Protection from cancer, especially colon cancer
- Improved digestion
- Increased longevity - eliminates body toxins by helping to rejuvenate cells and strengthens immune systems
- Helps restore the body's natural enzyme balance
- Rich in friendly bacteria
- Cleansing!
Friday, March 19, 2010
Emulsified Sugar Scrub
I love my new Emulsified Sugar Scrub!
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Absinthe
~Ernest Hemingway
"Let me be mad...
mad with the madness
of Absinthe, the wildest, most
luxurious madness in the world."
~Marie Corelli
"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, and that is the most horrible thing in the world."
~Oscar Wilde
"Absinthe has a wonderful color, green. A glass of absinthe is as poetical as anything in the world. What difference is there between a glass of absinthe and a sunset?"
~Oscar Wilde
"The first month of marriage is the honeymoon, the second is the absinthe-moon."
~Voltaire
Come, the Wines go to the beaches,
And the waves by the millions!
See the wild Bitter
Rolling from the top of the mountains!
Let us, wise pilgrims, reach
The Absinthe with the green pillars….
~Comedy of thirst, Arthur Rimbaud
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Absinthe & Patchouli Lavender Soaps
I was trying something new with this soap and the Patchouli Lavender. I was trying to get a layer of blue on top of the Absinthe and a layer of gray on top of the Patchouli Lavender. I guess I should have waited for the bottom layer to set-up longer before I poured the top color. I was afraid that the layers would separate on me. Oh, well, I kind of like how they turned out. Especially the Absinthe - very funky looking!
The Patchouli Lavender is an essential oil blend of Patchouli and Lavender essential oils. I have had a lot of requests for this blend. Now I just need to find some nice artwork to use on the labels. I am thinking of one by John Waterhouse for the Absinthe and am not sure about the Patchouli Lavender.
Ingredients for the soaps: Organic Olive, Coconut, Palm, Palm Kernel, Hemp, (Macadamia in the Patchouli Lavender and Avocado in the Absinthe), Babassu & Castor, Organic Fair Trade Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Water, Coconut Milk and Colorant (oxides).
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Globalization and the Shea Butter Industry
The country with the largest concentration of shea production is Burkina Faso. Shea was the third largest export of Burkina Faso in 2000, behind livestock and cotton. In the 1970's and 1980's, shea butter was the second largest export. The world price for shea butter plunged in the mid 1980's, further exacerbating the economic problems in Africa.
The Sahel region in Africa is a transition zone between the Sahara desert in the north and the tropical forested areas in the south. The climate of these sub-Saharan countries is typified by periods of average rainfall followed by periods of below-average rainfall. Historically, when the rainfall is below average for several years, a drought can occur. In this century droughts occurred in 1910-14, 1930, 1940-44, 1968-73 and 1980 - 84. The periods of drought have been increasing in duration. The drought from 1980 - 84 was one contributing factor to the why the global price for shea butter dropped in the mid 1980's. The quality of the shea nuts declined during this period, lowering the export price.
Agricultural problems related to droughts, over population and increasing poverty in the area have led to declining terms of trade. Increasing population puts strains on households to provide the basic food and housing necessities. The price of the regions exports has been declining when compared to the price of exports from the rest of the world. This is related to the policy of the government to try and liberalize trade policies. Exported agricultural products previously were regulated. These policies were eliminated and a result was instability and disorganization of the agricultural market (United Nations Development Program; www.undp.org).
In the 1990's, the government of Burkina Faso began promoting the development of the shea butter industry. This led to a number of NGO's (Non-Governmental Organizations) taking an interest in and supporting various shea projects. In 1997, UNIFEM (The United Nations Development Fund for Women) became involved. UNIFEM helped organize the local women into shea cooperatives. They also emphasized the manufacturing and refining of the shea nuts. Women are trained to use specialized equipment to try and retain the value-added aspect of the production cycle. More profit can be made by selling a manufactured butter than by exporting the raw nut for manufacture in Europe. It also preserves the integrity of the product.
Shea nuts are all handpicked by the women of the villages and sold to farmers groups and cooperatives. One reason women perform this function is that the men of the villages have been migrating to urban areas in search of work. Traditionally, it is a patriarchal society and men are considered the family's providers. The seasonal migration of men has always been part of the lifestyle. The men consider it dishonorable to return to their families without any earnings. Because it is getting increasingly difficult to find work, the men are away for longer periods of time and are not sending money home as they used to. Women in turn, are placed into the role of sole supporters for their families. This means the women of the village are the ones who cultivate the crops as well as perform traditional tasks.
Environmental problems are rampant in the Sahel region. Population is probably the biggest factor in the economic problems. In the period of time from 1980 to 1992 the population grew at a rate of 2.8%. By the year 2015 the population could double from what it was in 1980. The countries of the Sahel region are fall somewhere in Stage 3 of the demographic model (some sources suggest the middle of Stage 3 and some suggest the end of Stage 3). Stage 3 of the Demographic Transition Model suggests that death rates are low (people are living longer) and birth rates are high (but tapering downward). Even though it is predicted that the average annual population growth rate will decrease, the population will continue to grow. The concern is that the carrying capacity of the region will not be able to support the increased population.
Large families are also part of the culture of Africa. It is seen as a sign of prosperity for men to have a lot of children. Women, traditionally, do not play an important role in family planning. Birth control is not practiced and it is not uncommon for women to have 5 or 6 children.
Urbanization is also causing problems for the Sahel area. Vast amounts of people migrate to the larger cities in search of work. Most of these people end up in slum areas outside of the cities. As the need for fuel increases, more trees are needed to produce charcoal, the cheapest form of fuel. Propane and kerosene are cleaner and more efficient for cooking, but also more expensive. This increases the demand for trees and more trees are cut down. Desertification usually follows.
Desertification occurs in the Sahel area when the land is overused and affected by human activity. Because the Sahel area is just south of the Sahara desert, the desert encroaches on the Sahel area for a number of reasons. Deforestation is one activity that increases desertification. The cutting of trees will degrade the soil and cause erosion. Trees are cut to clear land for agriculture, as a source of building materials and to be used as firewood. The over grazing of cattle is also a significant contributing factor to desertification. As the trees and vegetation disappear the soil becomes less fertile and unable to support plant life.
As the fruit of the shea tree has become more popular within the cosmetics and food industries problems are developing. Large multi-national companies are trying to take over the shea market. In some areas of West Africa these companies set the price for shea nuts. In Uganda the farmers themselves set the price through cooperatives. Some environmental groups such as COVOL, The Cooperative Office for Voluntary Organizations, are working with the people to keep the multi-nationals out and protect the biodiversity of the shea tree and its indigenous woodland savanna. Other environmental groups are NENFOUND, Neighbor in Need Foundation, UNIFEM, and RAISE (Rural and Agricultural Incomes with a Sustainable Environment).
Approximately half of the shea butter produced is consumed in Africa. The shea tree can be compared with the Neem tree for its many uses. Shea butter is used in the chocolate industry as a substitute for cocoa butter. Cocoa butter comes from the cocoa bean and is a tropical plant native to South America. The cocoa plant is now being cultivated in other parts of the world. Two areas with a high percentage of production output are the Ivory Coast in Africa and the countries of Indonesia. The Ivory Coast currently accounts for 42% of world production and Indonesia accounts for 13% (www.encyclopedia.com). The liquid oil and solid butter are used by the local people for cooking. As well as its use in food products it is also used in the cosmetics industry. Shea butter has many unique qualities that benefit the skin.
Part of the increase in demand for shea butter is its recent use in the cosmetics industry. L'Occitane, a French company, has been instrumental with the popularity of shea butter. According to the philosophy of the company's founder, Olivier Baussan, L'Occitane is dedicated to respect for the environment. Olivier Baussan founded the company in 1976. The company produces natural body and skincare products. It employs approximately 1200 people and operates 280 stores in 40 countries. (www.loccitane.com) L'Occitane worked with UNIFEM to buy shea butter directly from the cooperatives and bypassed the middlemen. A greater share of the profits goes directly back to the producers.
I use shea butter as a major ingredient in my soap. It has a high content of non-saponifiable fats. Non-saponifiable means that, in the soapmaking process, the fats do not combine with the sodium hydroxide. The excess fat remains in its original state adding moisturizing and nourishing qualities to the soap. Shea butter has a high triglyceride content and contains 6% free fatty acids, 7% moisture content or waxy esters, greater than 45% oil content, 4-10% latex, and up to 11% unsaponifiables. It is used by dermatologists to treat eczema, dry, wrinkled skin, burns, and rashes. It is an extremely good moisturizer penetrating the skin easily to restore elasticity. The native peoples of Africa also use it as a natural sunscreen because of its Vitamin K content. Other uses are to prevent and heal sunburn, scars, stretch marks, cold sores, and diaper rash. (The Soapmaker's Companion, Susan Miller-Cavitch).
One of the ethical issues I am concerned about is the attempt by large multi-national companies to control the shea butter market. These companies attempt to establish a low price for the shea nuts and process the nuts in Europe. This would transfer the profits from the indigenous people to the corporations. The more manufacturing of the nuts that can be done locally, the more valuable the product will be. The export price will be higher because their will be more value-added components to the product.
Because of the rising popularity of shea butter, the traditional manufacturing process is also being threatened. Shea trees do not bear fruit until they are 20 years old and do not reach maturity until they are 45. They continue to produce nuts for 200-300 years. The long period of time before they become an economic asset has deterred the cultivation of these trees on farms. Traditionally, shea nuts are collected when they mature during the harvesting period being June through August. Some of the nuts are stored in special huts to be used throughout the year. The nuts are buried in pits to facilitate fermenting of the pulp. This makes it easier to separate the kernel from the shell. The next process is heating and kneading the kernels to separate the oil from the butter. The nuts are cooked in pots of water, and the butter rises to the top as it separates and rises to the surface. The butter is then skimmed off the top.
A more unnatural technique being used in Europe is the use of hexane as a bleaching agent to aid in the food industry. Hexane is a solvent made from crude oil. Hexane is typically used to extract vegetable oils from the plant. It is also used as a cleaning agent in the textile, furniture and printing industries. It is an ingredient in mercury free thermometers, glues used in the shoe business, rubber cement, typing correction fluid and other general purpose solvents. Hexane is extremely toxic and a known carcinogen. For my purposes, using a product containing hexane would negate the skin benefits I am trying to impart. Another ethical concern is that some of the trees have been used as firewood. People need to be educated about the importance of the shea tree. Not only do the trees produce a viable product, but the tree acts as a block to erosion. The trees help the fertility of the land and prevent the soils from washing away during the rainy season. The shea tree is protected and it is illegal to pick the nuts. The mature nuts fall to the ground when they are mature. Due to the instability of some of the governments in Africa where the shea tree is grown the protection of the tree is not enforced. It is also not encouraged to be grown commercially because it has a long period before the tree becomes productive.
Perhaps the biggest benefit to the people of the Sahel region is the sense of empowerment they get from being able to support their families. Other NGO's (Non-Governmental Organizations) fund literacy programs as well. Women are not only learning about cultivation and harvesting techniques but are also developing marketing strategies. They learn technical skills and are able to educate the general public. Literacy also empowers people by developing better organization and management skills.
It is refreshing to see the positive effects of globalization. When NGO's and globally conscious companies such as L'Occitane come together to help people develop a sustainable economy it can transform nations. There are still many obstacles to overcome in this part of Africa, such as AIDS, disease, desertification, deforestation, the decline of the family structure and poverty in general but it is important to support the humanitarian efforts being made and encourage the education of the people. The shea butter industry in the Sahelian region is an example of the benefits of globalization.
Bibliography
Cavitch, Susan Miller
The Soapmaker's Companion. Pownal, Vermont: Storey Communications, 1997.
Reader, John
Africa the PBS Series. Willard, Ohio: National Geographic Society, 2001.
Websites
Market and Technical Survey: Shea Nuts: www.raise.com
UNIFEM, Eradicating Feminized Poverty: www.unifem.com
COVOL Uganda, The Shea Project: www.covol.org/Shea/indes.html
Natural Oils, Shea Butter: www.naturaloils.com
National Safety Organization: National Safety Organization
United Nations Development Program: United Nations Development Program
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Business Decisions
When I got laid-off from my job this past spring it really hit me hard. It sent me in to a tailspin that I am still trying to recover from. The big positive is that I am now able to devote more time to my soap business. I have been developing new products and am experimenting with different oils and butters. I am now using a wonderful organic, fair trade shea butter that I am really excited about! You can read more about it in my next post.
Don't Make this FaceBook Mistake!
Do you have a FaceBook page? Almost everyone has a personal FaceBook these days. If you own a business it is imperative that you are on FaceBook. Their are currently over 400 million active FB users and that number is increasing every day. With that amount of exposure why would you not be on FB? This point was brought home to me last Wednesday when I saw a presentation by Mark and Deb Gehrke of Mandala Life Media. They are social networking gurus and have excellent ideas for small business owners.
I have had a personal FB for over two years and an inactive business FB for about that same amount of time. FB is so easy to use that I cannot believe I was idle on it for so long. Their are many common mistakes that people can make however. The biggest mistake I made was not knowing the difference between becoming a fan and adding to my favorites. Because I connected my business page to my personal page I found that I need to be on my business page and then add other businesses as "Favorite Pages". I believe it is important to add favorites to show support of other local businesses and to create awareness of your business by increasing exposure.
My place to check for really good tips is Donna Maria's Indie Business Blog:
Indie Business Blog