Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Castor Oil Properties in Soap

Castor Oil in Soap


I thought it would be interesting to write about some of the oils I use in my soap.  After making soap for over 10 years I have found that different oils contribute different qualities. 


Castor oil is derived from the seed of the plant.  The castor plant is native to the southeastern Mediterranean basin, East Africa and India.  India is the largest producer of castor oil followed by China and Brazil.


Traditionally, castor oil has many other uses.  It is used as a laxative and to relieve stomache aches. It is also used as an industrial lubricant.  Castor oil is also used to promote hair growth and is good for acne prone skin.


What makes castor oil different from other oils is the high concentration of ricinolein making it extremely thick and viscous. 


In soapmaking, castor oil is invaluable. All of my soap contains castor oil.  Like all oils you need to find the correct percentage to use.  Too much castor oil will make your soap very soft and mushy.  A little goes a long way unless you are making a shampoo bar.  In shampoo bars a common usage rate can be as high as 25%.   Soaps made with this much castor take much longer to cure. Shampoo bars take at least two months to harden. 


In my regular bars I use 2-3% castor oil.  It has natural emollient properties that adds conditioning qualities to the soap.  The addition of castor oil creates rich, dense, thick bubbles.  The biggest benefit that I see in my soap is that the lather is thick and luxurious.  


Castor oil is one oil that I cannot go without! 

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Why I Oppose the Safe Cosmetics Act

When the Safe Cosmetics Act first came out, I was definitely in agreement with it. Who would not be in favor of safe cosmetics?  One of the reasons I began making natural soaps and body care products was because I strongly believe in ethical products that are healthy not only for people but for the environment. I try and practice what I preach.  I use fair-trade shea butter in all of my products and buy organic whenever I can. I am a vegetarian not only for health reasons, but more importantly for the sustainability of our planet.  Even my business cards are made using recycled paper. With that being said, I have some real issues with the Safe Cosmetics Act. They have a top-notch website with all the bells and whistles (http://www.safecosmetics.org/index).  They have a really nice video featuring Annie Leonard - who reminds me of a modern-day June Cleaver. Who wouldn't believe June Cleaver?  However, just like June Cleaver is a fictional Hollywood character, this bill is also filled with fiction.

The bill sounds great on the surface but once you dig a little deeper you find many discrepancies.  The first question I ask myself after I read something is "Who is the author?" and, "What is in it for them?".  One of the founders of the Compact for Safe Cosmetics (CSFC) is Stacy Malkan, author of "Not Just a Pretty Face".  On the Skin Deep website their is a link to her website if you care to purchase the book for $15.95 - not including shipping. The bill is being backed by some powerful tax-exempt organizations including the Environmental Working Group (EWG). The EWG has not filed a tax return since 2008. Even though they are considered a charitable organization they are still required to file taxes.  The president of the EWG is Ken Cook. In 2008 (the last year a tax return was filed) his salary was listed as $219,401.00 along with an additional "estimated" $21,295.00 for other compensation.  You can read the entire article at "The Revealing Truth of the Money Trail of EWG".  If you are like me you will be amused - if not amazed - at the salaries of some of the members including Richard Wiles, Jane Houlihan, William Walker, Susan Comfort, Sandra Schubert, Alexander Formuzis and Christopher Campbell.  The combined salaries of these top 8 employees alone was $1,185,775.00.

One of the major reasons I do not support this bill is that it will require small businesses to conduct "safety" testing on all of our finished products.  This does not seem like a big deal, but it can cost anywhere from $5,000 to $20,000 just to test one product! Of course I would need to get my product tested in a "government approved" testing facility. So, when I change the name of "Apple Jack" to "Celtic Christmas" sometime in October, I can expect to pay an exorbitant amount of money to get my new soap tested.  When I decide that I would like to introduce a nice autumn fragrance like "Pumpkin Harvest", guess what?  Kaching, kaching, kaching..... another $8,000 to get it tested!  My annual "gross" income from my soap business in 2009 was $12,667.00.  I currently have 36 soaps, 12 flavors of lip balms, 8 lotion scents, 2 facial toners, 6 body sprays (give or take)....well, you get the picture!

The Safe Cosmetics Act is just another form of regulation that small business owners do not need. I already list all of my ingredients on my product labels. I file my taxes and pay them. This bill will bog me down in excess government paperwork and is just another form of censorship by the government. I urge people to read this bill between the lines!  Who benefits from this bill?  Big businesses that can afford to file all of the paperwork and pay for the filing fees.  Stacy Malkan who promotes her book on the Safe Cosmetics website. Ken Cook and his cohorts who collect huge salaries and don't file taxes.

This bill is not what it seems and I hope you will take a few minutes to read this petition and sign it.
http://www.thepetitionsite.com/1/oppose-hr-5786-safe-cosmetics-act-of-2010

Friday, July 9, 2010

Menasha Market

The Menasha Farm Market is a great place to be on a Thursday afternoon!
The atmosphere is relaxed and the vendors are terrific. My soap business is not only about selling soap but, more importantly, the relationships that you form with the other vendors. Panhia sells right next to me. She has 10 children - 6 girls and 4 boys! She is so tiny you would never beleive that she has 10 children!

It is a real joy to be next to her every week. She gives me all kinds of great vegetables like carrots, beets, mint, strawberries, raspberries, scallions and the best cilantro I have ever eaten.

She asked me to give her a print of these pictures when I see her this coming Thursday. Panhia is Hmong and originally from Laos. The Hmong are here in the United States as refugees from the Vietnam War. They were recruited by the US and fought against North Vietnam. In general, the Hmong people followed an agrarian lifestyle - much like our European ancestors. Because they fought to preserve their culture and would not be subdued by the communists, they were targeted for genocidal extinction.
The majority of  Hmongs have settled in Wisconsin, Minnesota and California.  The Hmong people are very family oriented and hard working.  I feel honored to have Panhia as a friend!

My next picture is Syd who is on the other side of me at the market. He also has a unique story. Syd is from Stephensville, which is very close to Shiocton. Syd sells old insulators, rhubarb, dried out gourds and maple syrup. We share the same Maple tree and we both benefit from its shade. Syd had his own farmer's market going at the Columbus Club in Appleton for a long time. Because of all the politics, he is not selling at the Appleton Market on Saturday mornings. He is a really nice guy - except for the fact that he eats too much meat. I am working on him, though, and hopefully before the summer ends I will have him weaned from his evil ways. Although he thinks that I am the one who is nuts.

Here are some pictures of my set-up at the market:

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Terry Naturally Farmer's Market


Me at the (NEW!) Terry Naturally Market

I started doing the market at Terry Naturally two weeks ago. I have such a good feeling about this market! Debra is the owner of Terry Naturally along with her husband, Terry Lemerond.  They have over 40 years of experience in the health industry. Terry is a prolific public speaker and gives regular presentations at the market.  This market is so well organized and well run. Debra spends much of the time passing out food samples using food produced from the vendors at the market.  They have great live entertainment featuring local musicians and a magician who performs card tricks.  The first week of the market a local radio station, WIXX, was there.

I bought perennial plants today from Bill. He has the healthiest plants I have seen and is very knowledgeable. I bought a Joe's Pye WeedOrange Coneflower and a Prairie Blazing Star.  He threw in another one - I think he said it was a purple coneflower. 

I can't wait until tomorrow so I can plant them!

His website is Stone Silo Prairie Garden. He is located in De Pere, Wisconsin and has many native grasses and sedges as well as perennial flowers. 

This is my friend, Terry, who owns Navarino Valley Elk & Buffalo Ranch in Shiocton, Wisconsin.  The elk are all grass fed, and raised without antibiotics or hormones. He has a whole variety of products including elk jerky (terriyaki, spicy and regular), steaks, roasts and elk patties. 

Thursday, May 13, 2010

Business Cards

How exciting!  For the last few days I have been hyper focussed on creating a new business card.  In the past I have used two local printing companies and, more recently, Vistaprint.  I have a fancy new Mac with all the fancy new software (that I am struggling to learn how to use).  I figured that it wouldn't be a big deal to design my own business card just like the "big guys" - the high-paid graphic designers that I wish I had the money to afford!

I also wanted to create a "Green" Business Card.  Because of my personal beliefs I want to use recycled paper and soy ink.  I have struggled with using Vistaprint because the company seems to be strangely like an internet version of Walmart (wow, I love that analogy - you can quote me on that!).  Even if it costs a little more, I want my business card to reflect my own philosophy of being environmentally friendly.

This is a Jpeg of what I came up with. I actually did this in a pdf format, but it would not upload like that. My actual business card will have rounded corners.

If anyone is interested in where I ordered my cards, email me or give me a call!


Thursday, April 29, 2010

Liquid Soap Update


This is what my liquid soap looks like 2 weeks later! This is normal - it will probably take another few days before it is clear. This process is called sequestering. I added more glycerin and borax to my liquid soap after I tested the ph level. Sequestering comes from the Latin word, sesquestrare, which means to remove, set aside or separate.  The clouding of the soap is caused by insoluble fatty acids.

Once the soap becomes brighter and less cloudy I will add the essential and fragrance oils. I plan on splitting this batch into three parts. One I will fragrance with Pink Grapefruit essential oil, one with Lavender essential oil and the last with Patchouli essential oil and Raspberry fragrance oil. When I add the various fragrances it will be interesting to see which ones will turn my soap cloudy again.

I think it is pretty neat to see the entire process of making liquid soap.  It is very different than when I make my normal soap!

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Liquid Soap Adventure!

I am trying my hand at liquid soap again. I made it about two years ago using Catherine Failor's book, "Making Natural Liquid Soap". This is a great book to use as a reference.

This is a picture of what the soap looks like after you combine the oil and butter mixture with the potassium hydroxide and water.

I used the paste method where you end up with a very thick, paste like substance. Using a stick blender, it doesn't take long for the mixture to turn into a glue-like consistency.

You dilute this using distilled water and it can take up to three days. I started out using a version of my regular soap formula and ran it through the lye calculator at The Sage. One of the tricks to making clear liquid soap is to use a "0" superfat. This means that all of your oils are saponified leaving nothing extra. Normally you would want to superfat your soap somewhat so that your soap has the conditioning benefits of the oils. When I make regular soap I always superfat my batches so that my soap is more moisturizing (well, as moisturizing as soap can be while still being cleansing).

It is imperative that you have an accurate scale. I went to a soapmaking class a few years ago just to see how it was being taught (and I was nosy). I cringed when the instructor said that a few ounces here or there was no big deal. It is a big deal! In soapmaking you need to be very accurate or your soap will be either lye heavy or a greasy mess. I am sure everyone has heard stories about their grandmothers making soap out of lard. Lye heavy soap is extremely drying and hard on your skin. On the other hand, a soap too heavy on the oil/butter side will not be cleansing and leave an oily film on your skin. So it is extremely important to measure your ingredients very accurately!


I did superfat my batch of liquid soap. I plan on using opaque pump bottles so it is not important to me if my soap is clear or cloudy. I wanted to leave some of the oils and butters unsaponified to make my soap less drying and harsh.

The soap above is what the paste looks like. It is so thick that you can't stir it and can barely get the spoon out.  I used some lovely oils and butters in this batch so I hope it turns out to be a nice, luxurious soap.

The ingredients I used are: Babassu, Avocado, Sweet Almond, Castor, Shea, Cocoa and Kokum Butters, Macadamia, Olive and Rice Bran. I have now diluted my paste and plan to add some Jojoba.

I can't wait to try it! I plan on splitting this batch and doing half with Lavender and the other half Patchouli Raspberry.

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Homemade Raw Sauerkraut

I actually made something besides soap last night. I met a new friend this winter while selling soap at the Winter Farm Market. My friend Linda (who also makes soap) and I went over to John Ulness's (Benefit Options) house after the market last Saturday. He makes Kombachu Tea and showed us how he does it(more about that in another post). Anyway, he peaked my interest in raw fermented foods. I inherited a 10 gallon crock that came from my grandparents' dairy farm so I decided to try and make sauerkraut.

Fermented foods contain helpful probiotics that restore the body's natural enzyme balance. Some of the health benefits include:
  • Protection from cancer, especially colon cancer
  • Improved digestion
  • Increased longevity - eliminates body toxins by helping to rejuvenate cells and strengthens immune systems
  • Helps restore the body's natural enzyme balance
  • Rich in friendly bacteria
  • Cleansing!
What Are Probiotics?

Probiotics are basically live bacteria that are beneficial to your body. This type of bacteria helps inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria. They aid in the digestion process and in the absorption of nutrients. They also help support a strong immune system. The sour taste in sauerkraut is not vinegar but lactic acid. Lactic acid is formed when the bacteria ferment sugars in the cabbage. Sauerkraut as we know it comes from Eastern Europe. Sauerkraut originally came from China. Kimchi is another form of sauerkraut from Korea. It is generally very hot and spicy. If my sauerkraut turns out I will try Kimchi - I love it!

Here is the recipe I used:

Grated cabbage - 3 heads and
Grated carrots - about 10
- to make 7 lbs.

2 Chopped Jalepeños
2 Tablespoons minced garlic
2 Tablespoons shallots
1 Ginger Root chopped
4 1/2 Tablespoons Celtic Sea Salt
- I use Celtic Sea Salt because of the nutritional value

I mixed it all together and placed it in my crock. On top of the mixture I put a layer of Saran Wrap. On top of that I filled up 2 gallon size Ziploc bags with water and placed them on top of my vegetables. This acts as a weight to squeeze out the water from the cabbage mixture. The cabbage will start to ferment in about one day. You need to let the cabbage sit for maybe a month depending on your climate. I put my crock in the basement. I guess it should be rather cool because it is better if it ferments longer.

I will keep you updated!

Friday, March 19, 2010

Emulsified Sugar Scrub


I love my new Emulsified Sugar Scrub!

Their is a difference between an emulsified scrub and a regular scrub. Emulsification is when you combine different waxes, butters, oils, etc. to create a cream or lotion. The process of combining the waxes with the liquids and oils in the correct proportions is what creates a homogenized product. After heating the oils and waxes you mix it for a long period of time to make it stable enough so the water does not separate from the oils.

I employed this concept and applied it to a scrub. The result is very unique. When you use a small amount and water is added, it turns the scrub into a lotion-like substance. I use pure, finely ground cane sugar. This is a very gentle exfoliant which leaves your skin soft and glowing. A major difference that I noticed was that this scrub is not oily or runny like some other scrubs that I have used.

My "Bergamot & Lemon Body Polish" is rich and hand whipped. It has the consistency of a heavy mousse or a creamy mascarpone cheese. I would like to thank "Cookiebug" from the Soap Dish Forum for her generosity in sharing her formula. It was her "recipe" that inspired me to come up with mine.

Ingredients: Organic Olive, Castor, Apricot, Meadowfoam & Palm Kernel oils, Emulsifying waxes, Palm Stearic, Pure Cane Sugar, Jojoba Beads, Fair Trade Organic Shea & Cocoa Butters, Mild Preservative, Bergamot, Lemon & Grapefruit Essential oils.

Another thing I'd like to mention is how much I really like www.onlinelabels.com. I have been using their clear labels for a couple of years now. I have a laser printer and I really like the way the labels adapt to my printer. The quality of the labels is excellent. The price is great and the service is top rate! I used Onlinelabels.com clear laser labels for my sugar scrubs. I need to order more labels next week and will definitely be ordering from onlinelabels.com this week!

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Absinthe


Absinthe! An intoxicating blend of essential oils that have the same hypnotic allure as the famous liquor. One thing I love about working with essential oils is the technique of blending. Just like with the original Absinthe, my essential oil blend is unique to me.

Ingredients: Saponified Oils of Olive, Rice Bran, Babassu, Coconut, Palm, Palm Kernel, Hemp, Avocado & Castor, Shea & Cocoa Butters, Coconut Milk, Water, Colorant.

Essential Oil Blend: Star Anise, Litsea Cubeba, Rosemary Verbonne, Palmarosa, Dalmation Sage and Clary Sage.

"Absinthe is the aphrodisiac of the self. The green fairy who lives in the absinthe wants your soul. But you are safe with me!"

~ Count Dracula

Absinthe has always intrigued me. I suppose it is because I have always been attracted to the Bohemian culture associated with it. Absinthe was originally created in Val de Travers, Switzerland in 1792. Other countries in Europe also have a history of producing it including Austria, The Czech Republic, France and Spain.

The major ingredient in Absinthe is Wormwood. The plant is naturally rich in terpene thujone, a powerful hallucenogenic. Wormwood is purported to induce clarity of thought, enhanced creativity, inspiration and increased psychic awareness and experiences. However, long term effects are brain damage, renal failure and addiction. Personally, I would not be adverse to trying the real thing once or twice to see for myself! I have always been an advocate for all-natural and have avoided herbicides, pesticides and chemicals. Wormwood, though - well, yeah, I'd try it!

Famous Absinthe Users: Edouard Manet, Oscar Wilde, Edgar Degas, Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Gauguin, Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway.

Absinthe Quotes:

"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."
~Ernest Hemingway

"Let me be mad...
mad with the madness
of Absinthe, the wildest, most
luxurious madness in the world."
~Marie Corelli

"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, and that is the most horrible thing in the world."
~Oscar Wilde

"Absinthe has a wonderful color, green. A glass of absinthe is as poetical as anything in the world. What difference is there between a glass of absinthe and a sunset?"
~Oscar Wilde

"The first month of marriage is the honeymoon, the second is the absinthe-moon."
~Voltaire

Come, the Wines go to the beaches,
And the waves by the millions!
See the wild Bitter
Rolling from the top of the mountains!
Let us, wise pilgrims, reach
The Absinthe with the green pillars….
~Comedy of thirst, Arthur Rimbaud

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Absinthe & Patchouli Lavender Soaps

I made two new soaps - Absinthe and Patchouli Lavender. The first one, Absinthe, actually surprised me. I wasn't sure I was really going to like but it smells awesome! It is an essential oil blend of Anise, Litsea Cubeba, Rosemary Verbonne, Dalmation Sage and Palmarosa.

I was trying something new with this soap and the Patchouli Lavender. I was trying to get a layer of blue on top of the Absinthe and a layer of gray on top of the Patchouli Lavender. I guess I should have waited for the bottom layer to set-up longer before I poured the top color. I was afraid that the layers would separate on me. Oh, well, I kind of like how they turned out. Especially the Absinthe - very funky looking!

The Patchouli Lavender is an essential oil blend of Patchouli and Lavender essential oils. I have had a lot of requests for this blend. Now I just need to find some nice artwork to use on the labels. I am thinking of one by John Waterhouse for the Absinthe and am not sure about the Patchouli Lavender.

Ingredients for the soaps: Organic Olive, Coconut, Palm, Palm Kernel, Hemp, (Macadamia in the Patchouli Lavender and Avocado in the Absinthe), Babassu & Castor, Organic Fair Trade Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Water, Coconut Milk and Colorant (oxides).

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Globalization and the Shea Butter Industry



The process of globalization can have many negative aspects. Environmental degradation, human exploitation, and the breaking down of local economies are all facets of globalization. I would like to show how globalization could benefit an industry. Shea butter is the natural fat derived from the nut of the Magnifolia, or Shea, tree. It is also called Karite butter. Magnifolia (shea) trees are found in West and Central Africa in the sub-Saharan area known as the Sahel region.


The country with the largest concentration of shea production is Burkina Faso. Shea was the third largest export of Burkina Faso in 2000, behind livestock and cotton. In the 1970's and 1980's, shea butter was the second largest export. The world price for shea butter plunged in the mid 1980's, further exacerbating the economic problems in Africa.
The Sahel region in Africa is a transition zone between the Sahara desert in the north and the tropical forested areas in the south. The climate of these sub-Saharan countries is typified by periods of average rainfall followed by periods of below-average rainfall. Historically, when the rainfall is below average for several years, a drought can occur. In this century droughts occurred in 1910-14, 1930, 1940-44, 1968-73 and 1980 - 84. The periods of drought have been increasing in duration. The drought from 1980 - 84 was one contributing factor to the why the global price for shea butter dropped in the mid 1980's. The quality of the shea nuts declined during this period, lowering the export price.

Agricultural problems related to droughts, over population and increasing poverty in the area have led to declining terms of trade. Increasing population puts strains on households to provide the basic food and housing necessities. The price of the regions exports has been declining when compared to the price of exports from the rest of the world. This is related to the policy of the government to try and liberalize trade policies. Exported agricultural products previously were regulated. These policies were eliminated and a result was instability and disorganization of the agricultural market (United Nations Development Program; www.undp.org).

In the 1990's, the government of Burkina Faso began promoting the development of the shea butter industry. This led to a number of NGO's (Non-Governmental Organizations) taking an interest in and supporting various shea projects. In 1997, UNIFEM (The United Nations Development Fund for Women) became involved. UNIFEM helped organize the local women into shea cooperatives. They also emphasized the manufacturing and refining of the shea nuts. Women are trained to use specialized equipment to try and retain the value-added aspect of the production cycle. More profit can be made by selling a manufactured butter than by exporting the raw nut for manufacture in Europe. It also preserves the integrity of the product.

Shea nuts are all handpicked by the women of the villages and sold to farmers groups and cooperatives. One reason women perform this function is that the men of the villages have been migrating to urban areas in search of work. Traditionally, it is a patriarchal society and men are considered the family's providers. The seasonal migration of men has always been part of the lifestyle. The men consider it dishonorable to return to their families without any earnings. Because it is getting increasingly difficult to find work, the men are away for longer periods of time and are not sending money home as they used to. Women in turn, are placed into the role of sole supporters for their families. This means the women of the village are the ones who cultivate the crops as well as perform traditional tasks.


Environmental problems are rampant in the Sahel region. Population is probably the biggest factor in the economic problems. In the period of time from 1980 to 1992 the population grew at a rate of 2.8%. By the year 2015 the population could double from what it was in 1980. The countries of the Sahel region are fall somewhere in Stage 3 of the demographic model (some sources suggest the middle of Stage 3 and some suggest the end of Stage 3). Stage 3 of the Demographic Transition Model suggests that death rates are low (people are living longer) and birth rates are high (but tapering downward). Even though it is predicted that the average annual population growth rate will decrease, the population will continue to grow. The concern is that the carrying capacity of the region will not be able to support the increased population.


Large families are also part of the culture of Africa. It is seen as a sign of prosperity for men to have a lot of children. Women, traditionally, do not play an important role in family planning. Birth control is not practiced and it is not uncommon for women to have 5 or 6 children.

Urbanization is also causing problems for the Sahel area. Vast amounts of people migrate to the larger cities in search of work. Most of these people end up in slum areas outside of the cities. As the need for fuel increases, more trees are needed to produce charcoal, the cheapest form of fuel. Propane and kerosene are cleaner and more efficient for cooking, but also more expensive. This increases the demand for trees and more trees are cut down. Desertification usually follows.

Desertification occurs in the Sahel area when the land is overused and affected by human activity. Because the Sahel area is just south of the Sahara desert, the desert encroaches on the Sahel area for a number of reasons. Deforestation is one activity that increases desertification. The cutting of trees will degrade the soil and cause erosion. Trees are cut to clear land for agriculture, as a source of building materials and to be used as firewood. The over grazing of cattle is also a significant contributing factor to desertification. As the trees and vegetation disappear the soil becomes less fertile and unable to support plant life.

As the fruit of the shea tree has become more popular within the cosmetics and food industries problems are developing. Large multi-national companies are trying to take over the shea market. In some areas of West Africa these companies set the price for shea nuts. In Uganda the farmers themselves set the price through cooperatives. Some environmental groups such as COVOL, The Cooperative Office for Voluntary Organizations, are working with the people to keep the multi-nationals out and protect the biodiversity of the shea tree and its indigenous woodland savanna. Other environmental groups are NENFOUND, Neighbor in Need Foundation, UNIFEM, and RAISE (Rural and Agricultural Incomes with a Sustainable Environment).

Approximately half of the shea butter produced is consumed in Africa. The shea tree can be compared with the Neem tree for its many uses. Shea butter is used in the chocolate industry as a substitute for cocoa butter. Cocoa butter comes from the cocoa bean and is a tropical plant native to South America. The cocoa plant is now being cultivated in other parts of the world. Two areas with a high percentage of production output are the Ivory Coast in Africa and the countries of Indonesia. The Ivory Coast currently accounts for 42% of world production and Indonesia accounts for 13% (www.encyclopedia.com). The liquid oil and solid butter are used by the local people for cooking. As well as its use in food products it is also used in the cosmetics industry. Shea butter has many unique qualities that benefit the skin.

Part of the increase in demand for shea butter is its recent use in the cosmetics industry. L'Occitane, a French company, has been instrumental with the popularity of shea butter. According to the philosophy of the company's founder, Olivier Baussan, L'Occitane is dedicated to respect for the environment. Olivier Baussan founded the company in 1976. The company produces natural body and skincare products. It employs approximately 1200 people and operates 280 stores in 40 countries. (www.loccitane.com) L'Occitane worked with UNIFEM to buy shea butter directly from the cooperatives and bypassed the middlemen. A greater share of the profits goes directly back to the producers.

I use shea butter as a major ingredient in my soap. It has a high content of non-saponifiable fats. Non-saponifiable means that, in the soapmaking process, the fats do not combine with the sodium hydroxide. The excess fat remains in its original state adding moisturizing and nourishing qualities to the soap. Shea butter has a high triglyceride content and contains 6% free fatty acids, 7% moisture content or waxy esters, greater than 45% oil content, 4-10% latex, and up to 11% unsaponifiables. It is used by dermatologists to treat eczema, dry, wrinkled skin, burns, and rashes. It is an extremely good moisturizer penetrating the skin easily to restore elasticity. The native peoples of Africa also use it as a natural sunscreen because of its Vitamin K content. Other uses are to prevent and heal sunburn, scars, stretch marks, cold sores, and diaper rash. (The Soapmaker's Companion, Susan Miller-Cavitch).

One of the ethical issues I am concerned about is the attempt by large multi-national companies to control the shea butter market. These companies attempt to establish a low price for the shea nuts and process the nuts in Europe. This would transfer the profits from the indigenous people to the corporations. The more manufacturing of the nuts that can be done locally, the more valuable the product will be. The export price will be higher because their will be more value-added components to the product.

Because of the rising popularity of shea butter, the traditional manufacturing process is also being threatened. Shea trees do not bear fruit until they are 20 years old and do not reach maturity until they are 45. They continue to produce nuts for 200-300 years. The long period of time before they become an economic asset has deterred the cultivation of these trees on farms. Traditionally, shea nuts are collected when they mature during the harvesting period being June through August. Some of the nuts are stored in special huts to be used throughout the year. The nuts are buried in pits to facilitate fermenting of the pulp. This makes it easier to separate the kernel from the shell. The next process is heating and kneading the kernels to separate the oil from the butter. The nuts are cooked in pots of water, and the butter rises to the top as it separates and rises to the surface. The butter is then skimmed off the top.

A more unnatural technique being used in Europe is the use of hexane as a bleaching agent to aid in the food industry. Hexane is a solvent made from crude oil. Hexane is typically used to extract vegetable oils from the plant. It is also used as a cleaning agent in the textile, furniture and printing industries. It is an ingredient in mercury free thermometers, glues used in the shoe business, rubber cement, typing correction fluid and other general purpose solvents. Hexane is extremely toxic and a known carcinogen. For my purposes, using a product containing hexane would negate the skin benefits I am trying to impart. Another ethical concern is that some of the trees have been used as firewood. People need to be educated about the importance of the shea tree. Not only do the trees produce a viable product, but the tree acts as a block to erosion. The trees help the fertility of the land and prevent the soils from washing away during the rainy season. The shea tree is protected and it is illegal to pick the nuts. The mature nuts fall to the ground when they are mature. Due to the instability of some of the governments in Africa where the shea tree is grown the protection of the tree is not enforced. It is also not encouraged to be grown commercially because it has a long period before the tree becomes productive.

Perhaps the biggest benefit to the people of the Sahel region is the sense of empowerment they get from being able to support their families. Other NGO's (Non-Governmental Organizations) fund literacy programs as well. Women are not only learning about cultivation and harvesting techniques but are also developing marketing strategies. They learn technical skills and are able to educate the general public. Literacy also empowers people by developing better organization and management skills.

It is refreshing to see the positive effects of globalization. When NGO's and globally conscious companies such as L'Occitane come together to help people develop a sustainable economy it can transform nations. There are still many obstacles to overcome in this part of Africa, such as AIDS, disease, desertification, deforestation, the decline of the family structure and poverty in general but it is important to support the humanitarian efforts being made and encourage the education of the people. The shea butter industry in the Sahelian region is an example of the benefits of globalization.

Bibliography

Cavitch, Susan Miller
The Soapmaker's Companion. Pownal, Vermont: Storey Communications, 1997.

Reader, John
Africa the PBS Series. Willard, Ohio: National Geographic Society, 2001.

Websites

Market and Technical Survey: Shea Nuts: www.raise.com

UNIFEM, Eradicating Feminized Poverty: www.unifem.com

COVOL Uganda, The Shea Project: www.covol.org/Shea/indes.html

Natural Oils, Shea Butter: www.naturaloils.com

National Safety Organization: National Safety Organization

United Nations Development Program: United Nations Development Program

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Business Decisions

Over the winter I have had to make some tough decisions regarding my business. I needed to make a choice whether to raise my prices and keep the quality of my products high or keep my prices the same and use cheaper ingredients. The other option was to use smaller molds and decrease the size of my soap. I knew in my heart what my decision would be. I was afraid to raise my prices due mainly to the state of the economy. Wisconsin seems especially effected by the job loss in the paper manufacturing sector with many businesses going overseas. It has caused a huge ripple effect in this area of the country. The situation is aptly coined the "Race to the Bottom". David Green wrote a nice article over at the Common Dreams website. Here is a link to the article: Race to the Bottom.

When I got laid-off from my job this past spring it really hit me hard. It sent me in to a tailspin that I am still trying to recover from. The big positive is that I am now able to devote more time to my soap business. I have been developing new products and am experimenting with different oils and butters. I am now using a wonderful organic, fair trade shea butter that I am really excited about! You can read more about it in my next post.

Don't Make this FaceBook Mistake!



Do you have a FaceBook page? Almost everyone has a personal FaceBook these days. If you own a business it is imperative that you are on FaceBook. Their are currently over 400 million active FB users and that number is increasing every day. With that amount of exposure why would you not be on FB? This point was brought home to me last Wednesday when I saw a presentation by Mark and Deb Gehrke of Mandala Life Media. They are social networking gurus and have excellent ideas for small business owners.

I have had a personal FB for over two years and an inactive business FB for about that same amount of time. FB is so easy to use that I cannot believe I was idle on it for so long. Their are many common mistakes that people can make however. The biggest mistake I made was not knowing the difference between becoming a fan and adding to my favorites. Because I connected my business page to my personal page I found that I need to be on my business page and then add other businesses as "Favorite Pages". I believe it is important to add favorites to show support of other local businesses and to create awareness of your business by increasing exposure.

My place to check for really good tips is Donna Maria's Indie Business Blog:
Indie Business Blog

Update on Stick Blender

Do not waste your money on a Dualit Hand Blender. Although the motor is good the housing did not stand up. The outside is made of cheap plastic and cracked after only a few months of use. I am very disappointed! I bought a $25 Hamilton Beach, 200 watt hand blender from Fleet Farm last month. The price is right and if it breaks I am only out $25 not over $100!

Monday, February 15, 2010

Memory Stick

So much for getting more organized this year. If I did have a New Year's Resolution it was to become more organized this year (I say that every New Year). Last night I got out my homemade lightbox, tripod, cleaned the kitchen counter, got out my camera and walaa - no memory stick! Of course none of the kids knew anything about it. So, I am off today to buy a new one. I hate spending money when I shouldn't need to!